Cetaphil: the fresh maker

I just had to pass along this brilliantly written review of Cetaphil from the Sephora Spy at Jezebel. 

My favorite line: If you get the big 16 oz. size that comes in a pump and the pump gets slightly stopped up, does it sometimes go squirting across the bathroom and stick to the wall like a load of slightly iridescent semen from hell? Absolutely.

Skincare 101, updated

This is a long one. Brace yourself.

I've nestled into a really great skincare routine lately. One product I've been using for several months is something that I'm a little reticent to rave about. It absolutely deserves a rave, but it goes against a lot of the things I've learned about skincare and it took *me* a while to accept it, so I wonder how my faithful readers will take to it.

It's Jojoba Oil. Yes, on the face. Yes, rubbing oil onto your face. As a cleanser. Years ago I was told by a dermatologist to never use products with oil on my face, so the thought of putting pure oil on my face...well, it had me nervous to say the least. But when I read about it, and really put some thought into it, I decided to give it a try. The idea is that oil helps to attract and whisk away oil, without upsetting the natural balance of your skin. So much of the "oil-controlling" crap that we put on our faces actually makes our skin dry, and therefore it will create more oil to compensate. The oil cleansing method is supposed to gently restore your skin's suppleness and doesn't leave you greasy at all, which is sort of counter-intuitive but I assure you, it works.

Even on the first day, it *felt* right. It felt wonderful to massage it into my skin, and I noticed improvement in the texture of my skin immediately. I used it for a month, and the results were quite good. Then I got a little freaked and stopped for a few weeks. That was a mistake. I realized that using the jojoba oil as a cleanser really was making my skin soft and smooth and luminous. So now I'm hooked. I do it every morning, and I follow-up with a small dab of gentle cleanser to emulsify the oil and wash it away. I don't really need to use a cleanser afterward, because the oil itself is the cleanser. I guess a small part of me is still nervous about not getting it washed off completely. 

I use Desert Essence Organic Jojoba Oil, about $10-$15 for a bottle that will last a long time.

The other two products I've been using have reached holy grail status quite quickly:

The first is Neutrogena's Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream. This cream was listed in Paula Begoun's media list for 2008, and got huge rave reviews from women online. I am never convinced about a product even when it has great reviews, but this one won me over completely after the first week of use. I use it at night after cleansing. It's a retinol cream, but unlike other retinols, it's so gentle and doesn't irritate me at all, but has helped to make my skin smooth and shrink pores.

The second is actually a product meant for psoriasis, Dermarest's Medicated Skin Treatment. I don't have psoriasis, but I decided to give it a try because it's really just a 3% salicylic acid BHA product and a lot cheaper than most BHA's, which tend to come in small bottles marked as "spot treatment" and cost an arm and a leg when you're using it all over your face. In case you haven't read my previous posts, BHA's are really just made of aspirin (salicylic acid) that penetrates the skin to exfoliate gently and remove dead skin cells. There are oodles of BHA's out there, some have inactive ingredients or formulas that make them worthless. This particular formulation is a gel consistency and I really love how it penetrates quickly but is easy to spread. It contains anti-redness ingredients too, which aren't necessary for me but certainly haven't hurt. This is by far the best BHA I have ever used, and I can't get over how huge the bottle is for only $10. I found it at my local CVS.

So to sum things up, here's what I'm using on my face:

::Night::

Gentle Cleanser

Neutrogena's Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream

::Morning::

Jojoba Oil, rubbed on face and left on for a few minutes

Small dab of gentle cleanser to remove oil

Dermarest's Medicated Skin Treatment (3% BHA)

SPF 15

Skin Effects Enzyme Scrub

I recently had my first spa experience on a weekend shopping trip with girlfriends. It seemed well worth the money at the time and I loved getting my "personal prescription facial," but I couldn't help feeling guilty afterward that I'd spent so much money with no *real* lasting effects.

The one product the Aesthetician used that gave me amazing results was a high-end, European brand exfoliant that uses fruit enzymes. I was tempted to buy it at the spa, but when I saw the price tag I gulped and put it back.

At home, I was determined to research and find a drugstore product with similar ingredients and effects. This scrub is almost identical to the expensive scrub used on me at the spa. I've been using it for 2 months with great results. It's a gentle scrub (I have extremely sensitive skin) and you can really feel it working if you leave it on for a few minutes. It leaves my face bright and glowing, with no redness. It has reached holy grail status.

Oh, and the best part: only $6.99. The Skin Effects brand is available only at CVS.

Stress Control

I've been using two of the products from the new Neutrogena Stress Control line for the past month. I have to say, I haven't adored products like this in a while. I think they're putting crack in it because I *so* look forward to using these twice a day. Usually my adoration wears off after a couple of weeks.

:: Neutrogena Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Treatment ::

Good things:

1. Gel-like consistency that moisturizes but also leaves you with a matte finish.
2. BHA helps to clear acne and prevent it, and exfoliate skin.
3. Has a soothing effect that I can't really describe with words.
4. The smell is light and refreshing, though I normally detest fragrance in face products.
5. Recommended by Paula Begoun, who researches products scientifically and ignores marketing.
6. Comes in a very nice, sanitary squirt-bottle.
   
7. Around $7 and available everywhere.
   

:: Neutrogena Stress Control Power-Clear Scrub ::

Good things:

1. I *rarely* enjoy a scrub, as most are too harsh for my skin. But this one is fantastic. I use it every morning and sometimes at night too.
2. Does not irritate or dry out skin, but leaves your skin even-toned and refreshed.
3. Has a cream base that makes it easy to put on and leave on throughout your shower, so the medicine has a longer time to work into your face.

Bad things:

1. Something in it is tingly, which feels nice but sometimes those ingredients can be irritating, so be careful.

Anti-Aging, Anti-Wrinkles, DISCUSS!

Okay, I got a comment from Becky that goes like this:

I don't think you've covered anti-wrinkle creams yet. I just discovered that a bunch of my 25-30 year-old friends use anti-aging creams reguarly. Personally, I thought these kinds of things were for when you got old and actually had wrinkles...not as a preventative measure. Also, I am doubting the science of anything that promises to take away (or prevent) wrinkles. Please discuss oh-holy-maven-of-beauty-products.

Here are my thoughts on anti-aging/wrinkle creams and products: THEY ARE A HUGE WASTE OF MONEY AND WOMEN FALL FOR IT TIME AND TIME AGAIN. We are so desperate to look young we will pay for anything that promises to tighten, firm, or fill-in those cracks. I personally do not have many wrinkles yet, but I do notice my skin aging a bit and I certainly think my eye area could use some perking up.

There are only two things we know for sure:
1. Sunscreen is a must. Every day. Every single damn day. Get over wanting to look like a golden goddess...pruning your skin in the sun or even worse in a tanning bed. You are aging your skin exponentially. Wear sunblock (I prefer foundation/moisturizer with SPF of at least 15 included), and stay out of the sun when you have a choice.
2. Aging skin usually lacks moisture. Give your skin moisture, and it will look more plump and young.

Beyond that, you should take good care of your skin every day. (I personally recommend using an AHA product to keep your skin looking healthy.) There are no miracle products that are going to make your skin stay forever young. Sometimes the most expensive products are the biggest pieces of bullshit.

My single best resource for skincare science is Paula Begoun. Reading her books changed my life. She knows her shit and relies on FACTS, not hype, to make recommendations. Go to her site, check out the links on the left, particularly "Dear Paula" and "Skin Care Facts"...and sign up for her free email newsletter! She rocks my world. I can't say it enough.